1967-1972 Ford F-100 Bumpside Guide: Every Model Year, Engine and What It Is Worth in 2026

The "bumpside" is the fifth-generation Ford F-Series pickup built from 1967 to 1972. Enthusiasts named it for the raised horizontal crease that runs the length of the body, from the front fender all the way to the tailgate. It is not a Ford term. It is a shop-floor nickname that stuck, and it is now the fastest-appreciating F-100 generation on the market. The quickest way to pin down the exact year is the grille: 1967 has a squared-off grille with the parking lamps sitting directly under the headlights, 1970 switches to a tight gridwork pattern with the parking lamps wrapped around the fender corners, 1971 runs six rectangular openings per side, and 1972 drops to four larger ones.

Below is the full breakdown: year-by-year identification, every engine offered, what the trim names actually mean, what a bumpside is worth in 2026, and what to check before you hand over money for a project truck. If you are here because someone you love is building one of these and you are trying to work out what on earth to get him, skip to the section near the end. It answers that too.

In this article

• What is a "bumpside" Ford F-100?
• How do you tell 1967 to 1972 model years apart?
• Which engines came in a bumpside F-100?
• What do Custom, Sport Custom, Ranger and Ranger XLT mean?
• What is a 1967 to 1972 Ford F-100 worth in 2026?
• What should you check before buying a bumpside project?
• What do you get the guy who is building one?
• FAQ

What is a "bumpside" Ford F-100?

Ford launched the fifth-generation F-Series for the 1967 model year and built it through 1972. The nickname comes from the convex character line that bumps outward along the side of the cab and bed. The generation that followed, from 1973 to 1979, reversed that line into a recessed crease, so the community calls those trucks "dentsides." Bumpside and dentside are the two names you will hear most often in any classic Ford truck conversation, and neither of them ever appeared in a Ford brochure.

What makes the bumpside matter is that it is the moment the pickup stopped being purely a farm implement. Ford marketed it on the line "works like a truck, rides like a car," and it backed that up: more shoulder room, better sound deadening, padded sun visors, and for the first time across the range, optional power steering, power brakes, and factory air conditioning. Wood-grain dash inserts and full carpeting showed up on the upper trims. It is the generation where a work truck started becoming something you would willingly drive on a Sunday.

The basic architecture is simple. Two wheelbases: 115 inches with the 6.5-foot short bed, and 131 inches with the 8-foot long bed. Two bed styles: the flush-sided Styleside, where the character line runs unbroken from fender to tailgate, and the Flareside, where the rear fenders sit outside the bed and the crease stops at the cab. Regular cab only. The SuperCab did not arrive until 1974.

How do you tell 1967 to 1972 model years apart?

Look at the grille first. Ford revised it every single year of this generation, and it is the fastest visual tell there is. Here is the whole run in one table.

Year	Grille and front end	Other giveaways
1967	Squared-off grille, parking lamps mounted directly beneath the headlights	Only year with the 352 FE V8 and the 170 inline-six. No side marker lights.
1968	Wider center bar in bright anodized aluminum, "Ranger" emblem centered on the grille	Federally mandated reflectors appear on the hood sides and bed. Breakaway window cranks and new door releases inside.
1969	Center bar gains a concave horizontal indentation. Last year for the center emblem.	Ranger models get black paint around the headlights with a red stripe on the center bar. Mid-year switch from white paint to anodized aluminum finish, so check the build date.
1970	Completely new grille with a tight gridwork pattern. Parking lamps move to wrap around the front fender corners.	Rear side markers added. Fuel tank grows to 19.5 gallons. Trim names all change (see below).
1971	Six rectangular grille sections per side, replacing 1970's fine gridwork	Passenger-car-style hubcaps replace the utilitarian truck caps. Two-spoke steering wheel replaces the horn ring.
1972	Four larger rectangular openings per side, down from six	Power brakes finally available from the factory on 4WD models. Horsepower ratings switch from gross to SAE net.

Two shortcuts worth memorizing. If the parking lamps are under the headlights, you are looking at a 1967 to 1969 truck. If they wrap around the fender corners, it is 1970 to 1972. And if there are no side marker reflectors anywhere on the body, it is a 1967, because they became mandatory for 1968.

The good news for anyone building one of these: the grilles changed constantly but the core cab structure, the doors, and the bed dimensions stayed remarkably consistent across all six years. A rust-free door pulled from a 1972 will bolt straight onto a 1967 cab. That interchangeability is a large part of why these trucks are so buildable.

Which engines came in a bumpside F-100?

Seven engines were offered across the six model years, and only two of them ran the entire generation. Note that everything through 1971 was advertised in gross horsepower, measured on an engine stand without accessories. For 1972 Ford switched to SAE net, measured as installed. That is why the numbers look like they collapsed overnight when they did not.

Engine	Years	Output
170 cu in inline-six	1967 only	105 hp gross
240 cu in inline-six	1967 to 1972	About 150 hp gross, 121 hp net
300 cu in inline-six	1967 to 1972	165 to 170 hp gross
302 cu in Windsor V8	Late 1969 to 1972	205 hp gross, 154 hp net
352 cu in FE V8	1967 only	208 hp gross
360 cu in FE V8	1968 to 1972	215 hp gross, 196 hp net
390 cu in FE V8	1968 to 1972	255 hp gross, 201 hp net

The 300 inline-six deserves its reputation. It is one of the toughest engines Ford ever built and plenty of them are still running on original internals. But the two engines that drive resale value today are the 302 and the 390. The 302 because the aftermarket support for small-block Ford is effectively infinite, and the 390 because it is the big-block that gives a bumpside the sound people want.

What do Custom, Sport Custom, Ranger and Ranger XLT mean?

This trips people up constantly, because Ford renamed the entire hierarchy for 1970 and reused words that already meant something else. Here is how it actually worked.

1967 to 1969. The base truck had rubber mats, painted metal door panels, and minimal insulation. Custom Cab added better upholstery and trim. Ranger sat at the top with thicker seat foam, color-coordinated carpet kits, and specific stamped steel door panels. An Explorer Special package joined the lineup in 1968, and 1969 added three "Job-Engineered" packages aimed at specific buyers: Contractor, Heavy Duty, and Farm and Ranch.

1970 to 1972. "Base" became Custom. "Custom Cab" became Sport Custom. Ranger stayed where it was, and a new Ranger XLT was added on top with wood-grain dash inserts, extensive exterior aluminum moldings, and cargo lights. For 1972 Ford added the Northland Special cold-weather package.

The practical consequence: if someone tells you their 1971 is a "Custom," that is the entry-level truck. If someone tells you their 1968 is a "Custom Cab," that is a mid-tier truck. Same word, different rung on the ladder, and it matters enormously when you are sourcing period-correct interior parts.

What is a 1967 to 1972 Ford F-100 worth in 2026?

More than it was, and by a lot. Hagerty's Q1 2023 price guide recorded the 1967 to 1972 F-Series gaining 37 percent in a single quarter, naming it one of the five biggest movers of that period. Hagerty attributed the jump to rising visibility at the major collector auctions, Mecum and Barrett-Jackson in particular, and noted the gains applied to both stock trucks and modified builds. The bumpside has been steadily closing the gap on the 1967 to 1972 Chevrolet and GMC C/K trucks, which historically pulled the bigger auction numbers.

Condition	What that means	Typical range
#1 Concours	Better than it left the factory	$50,000 to $80,000
#2 Excellent	Show-quality driver, no stories	$30,000 to $50,000
#3 Good	Solid driver with visible age	$15,000 to $30,000
#4 Fair	Running project, needs everything	$6,000 to $15,000

To put the trajectory in context: a #2 condition bumpside that sold for $24,000 to $25,000 in 2020 has been bringing $35,000 to $50,000 more recently, with the average selling price across all conditions sitting around $35,000. Trucks with a 302 or a 390 sit at the top of their band. A numbers-matching 1967 with the one-year-only 352 carries its own premium with the right buyer, simply because there is nowhere else to get one.

Two caveats. Values move, and any figure you read today is a snapshot. Check current numbers on Hagerty's valuation tool before you buy or sell. And condition grading is subjective in a way that costs real money, so grade the truck in front of you honestly rather than the truck you hope it is.

What should you check before buying a bumpside project?

Rust is the whole conversation. On these trucks it collects in four predictable places, and you should get underneath with a flashlight before anything else.

• Cab corners. The lower rear corners of the cab are the single most common failure point. They are also the most commonly and most badly repaired, so look for filler and mismatched panel gaps as well as rust.
• Floor pans. Pull the mats or carpet. Water gets in through failed windshield and rear window seals and sits there for decades.
• Wheel wells and bed. Inner and outer bedsides go, and Styleside beds are harder to patch invisibly than Flareside.
• The frame. Check for rust, cracks, and old repairs, especially around the rear spring hangers. Sheet metal is replaceable. A tired frame changes the entire economics of the build.

After rust, look at the wiring. Fifty-plus-year-old harnesses mean brittle insulation and corroded connections, and chasing an intermittent electrical fault is one of the more soul-destroying jobs in restoration. Many builders replace the harness outright rather than repair it.

The encouraging part is parts supply. Reproduction and OEM sheet metal, trim, and drivetrain parts for these trucks are widely available from specialty suppliers, and the cross-year interchangeability means the donor pool is large. This is not a truck where you wait eight months for a fender.

Set expectations on time. Restoring a bumpside is not a weekend project. Even a partial restoration tends to run in seasons rather than weeks, and a frame-off build is a multi-year commitment. Decide up front whether you are doing frame-off or a rolling restoration, because that decision drives the budget more than any other. If you are still weighing which project to take on, our guide to the best classics to restore in 2026 covers how the bumpside stacks up against the muscle car options.

What do you get the guy who is building one?

This is the question that brings a lot of people to this page, and it deserves a straight answer rather than a list of novelty keychains.

Here is the problem with buying for someone mid-build. He already owns the tools. He has strong opinions about which brand of tools, and they are not your opinions. He does not need another coffee mug, another T-shirt, or another set of socks. Anything functional you buy risks being the wrong one, and he will be too polite to say so.

What he does not have is anything on the wall that says the truck is his. That is the gap. A personalized steel sign of his exact truck, with his name or his shop's name cut into it, is not a tool he has to have an opinion about. It is recognition. It says someone paid attention to the thing he has been pouring evenings into.

Two things come up over and over in what buyers say afterwards, and neither of them is what you would expect. The first is weight. People order metal art online expecting thin stamped tin and are surprised by what comes out of the box. The second is relief: the moment of watching him react and knowing you got it right.

Across 374 reviews the shop averages 4.9 out of 5, and roughly one in five of those reviews mentions how fast the order arrived. One buyer ordered two days before Christmas and still had time to wrap it.

What if his truck is not a bumpside?

Easy mistake to avoid, and worth thirty seconds of checking. If the parking lamps sit under the headlights or wrap the fender corners, and the side crease bumps outward, you are in 1967 to 1972 territory and the sign above is the right one. If the crease is recessed inward, he has a dentside and you want a different design. The other F-100 generations each have their own:

• Personalized 1961-1966 Ford F-100 sign, for the generation before this one
• 1953-1956 Ford F-100 sign, the other most-collected vintage generation
• 1973 Ford F-100 Dad's Garage sign, for the first year of the dentsides
• Personalized Hot Rod Garage sign, when the build is a mix of everything and the shop itself is the point

If none of those match, the full garage signs collection covers most of the American classics people actually build. For more ideas aimed squarely at the man cave, see our 10 personalized garage signs for dad and the full metal art gift guide.

How do you find out what year his truck is without asking him?

If you want it to be a surprise, you have three easy options. Take a photo of the front of the truck and compare the grille against the table above, which takes about a minute. Check the registration or insurance paperwork if you have access to it. Or scroll back through his phone or social media, because anyone building one of these has photographed it from every angle and almost certainly captioned it with the year.

One thing worth knowing: because the sign covers the full 1967 to 1972 range, you do not need to nail the exact year. You only need to know he is in that generation. The grille test above is enough to confirm it.

Frequently asked questions

Why is it called a bumpside?

Because of the raised horizontal crease that runs along the side of the body from the front fender to the rear. The nickname was coined by enthusiasts, not by Ford, and it distinguishes the 1967 to 1972 trucks from the 1973 to 1979 "dentsides," which have a recessed version of the same line.

What is the difference between a bumpside and a dentside?

The side crease. On a bumpside, from 1967 to 1972, the body line bumps outward. On a dentside, from 1973 to 1979, it is pressed inward. The dentside also has a wider cab, a different door design, and from 1974 the option of a SuperCab, which no bumpside ever had.

What year F-100 is the most valuable?

Within this generation, 1967 tends to carry a small premium as the launch year and the only year for the 352 FE V8 and the 170 inline-six. But condition and drivetrain matter far more than model year. A #2 condition 1971 with a 390 will beat a rough 1967 every time.

Is a 1967 to 1972 F-100 a good first restoration project?

It is one of the better choices. Parts availability is strong, the mechanicals are simple and well documented, panels interchange across all six years, and there is a large active community that has already solved most of the problems you will hit. The main risk is buying a truck with frame or cab corner rot that costs more to fix than the truck is worth.

What engine should I put in a bumpside restomod?

The 302 Windsor is the most common starting point because small-block Ford parts are cheap and everywhere. Builders wanting more period-correct character go with the 390 FE. Modern Coyote swaps are increasingly popular but require significantly more fabrication and budget.

How long does a bumpside restoration take?

A rolling restoration where you drive it while you improve it can show real progress in a season. A full frame-off build is realistically a multi-year project for someone working evenings and weekends. Anyone who tells you otherwise has either not done one or is not counting the hours.

Sources and further reading: Hagerty Valuation Tools, Ford Authority on 1967-1972 F-Series values, and Classic Industries' bumpside identification guide.